María en Latinoamérica: Giving Ecuador a fresh start

After getting my stuff stolen, I was bound and determined to give Ecuador a fresh start. We left for Baños, which is a town in the Andean highlands near the start of the Amazon jungle, known for its thermal springs and extreme sports. Upon arriving we were marveling at the beauty (again, dwarfed by andean peaks), and safety of this town (people walking around at night?! Things open past 7pm?!). As Cory so aptly put it, after our experience in Quito, ¨This is a tourist trap. And I LOVE it!¨

That night, we waited for Bridget and her two friends at a Italian restaurant. We were so excited-- it was as though we were all awaiting the arrival of a sister. Finally the taxi pulled up and an overdramatic show of excitement ensued on the streets of Baños, which ended with a night of stories, hysterical laughter, and just plain bliss. Bridget came to Baños with Mark, a fellow study abroad student, and Ryan who is my friend Santiago´s brother. Santiago´s family lives in Cuenca and has been like a second family to Bridget.

Our time in Baños was well spent. We biked 25 miles through the high, lush green Andean peaks, and let me tell you, that was by far the most beautiful bike ride of my life. Imagine seven of us biking on gravel road with the most stunning views of high peaks, waterfalls, and yes, even lush jungle (the road leads to the Amazon rainforest). We made two detours: the first was bridge\bungee jumping over a river. Alas, I did not partake in this, but both Cory and Bridget and Katie and Ryan did, and it looked like a blast. After that, our next detour took us to a sort of sky-tram over the river gorge and a waterfall. This.was.awesome. Only Bridget didn´t seem to think so. We were suspended by wire cables in a metal wicker basket soaring across the divide. Then we hiked down and across the river on a wooden suspension bridge (also, not Bridget´s cup of tea). After biking the gorgeous 25 miles, we got a ride back in the back of a pickup from some guy on the side of the road. It reminded me that riding in the back of the pickup is my favorite mode of transportation in the world.

The next day, after a night of karaoke singin (don´t mean to brag, but jeanne and I got 98.25%), and dancin´ up a storm (Cory and I were busting out our mad skillz and puttin even the snazziest of Ecuadorians to shame), the others spent the day canyoning (reppeling down waterfalls) while Bridget and I had a chill day in town. We were just paying for our lunch when all of the waitresses in the restaurant excitedly ran towards the door and looked out to the street giggling like crazy. ¨Um, what´s goin´on?¨ I ask. ¨It´s the national soccer team!¨ She squeals.

Sure enough, we exit the restaurant and all over the street are men in soccer jerseys, and in every window and doorway, women excitedly giggle and swoon. Bridget and I walk past a group of them who look up and mutter an ´hola´, and no sooner do we stop at the next candy stall that we are surrounded by soccer players. Where are we from, whats our names, what brings us to Baños, what are we doing tonight? They ask. Now, mind you, Bridget and I have not showered, are dressed borderline frumpy, and having fat days, and we are STILL being hit on by 8-10 Ecuadorian soccer players (much to the envy and dismay of the rest of the women). It was one heck of a confidence booster.

Before leaving Baños we decided to stop at the thermal springs. Now, I´ve been to thermal springs before, but... lets just say this was different. It was like taking an overcrowed bath where the water looked like urine and there were mothers breastfeeding everywhere. At one point a man with a bloody open wound rubbed up against me. There was also a small boy running around with a very apparent (i.e. gross), highly contagious case of chicken pox. It was quite the experience.

Our bus ride from Baños to Cuenca was also an experience. We almost hit someone, the bus swerved and screeched sending people flying. At one point we had to turn around because ¨the mountain fell¨ (a landslide blocked the road), and the way our driver was driving, we were convinced that a) he was drunk and b) we were certainly going to die. While the jury is still out about a, luckily we arrived in Cuenca safe and sound.

We have been in Cuenca all week with Santi and Ryan´s amazing family. But that´s another post. :) Ecuador is definately lookin´up.